From
16.-18th of October I experienced the wonderful nature of Taroko National Park
(太魯閣國家公園). Now I know why it is called the jewel of Taiwan. It
is a wonderful and almost magical natural reservation area. Interestingly, as I
told some Taiwanese friends I am going to Taroko they didn’t know what I mean,
the translation is not close enough to the Chinese word Tàilǔgé 太魯閣.
About four million years ago, the Philippine Sea Plate and the Eurasian
Continental Plate collided, and the sediments of the former ocean rose as well
as the already formed marble on top. The gorge was formed by the Liwu River eroding the
marble millions of years. Due to the reason that it is sometimes harder on top
many caves formed. You can see impressive high and steep cliffs, waterfalls and
huge stones in the riverbed. You can also see the strength of a Typhoon,
breaking huge masses of soil, stone and trees that slip down to the valley. It
is a fantastic place and no one should miss it when being in Taiwan.
I went there with two
other German girls, starting Thursday directly after class. We borrowed a tent
from a shop very close to Shiyuan Dormitories. We didn’t know that going
camping – especially without a guy carrying all the heavy stuff – is very
uncommon in Taiwan. We were tourist attraction number one in every train on our
way to Xincheng – the closest Train station to the National Park. From there a
shuttle bus to park departs but we were too late to catch it and took a taxi
that brought us to the main entrance of the park. Sun sets around 6pm these
times and we arrived in the dark. With headlight and torches we searched a nice
meadow to camp (took some time, but we found something). It is not too easy to
camp wild in Taiwan because most of the time the ground is paved or stone with
little vegetation or too much vegetation and many insects. The tent was set up
fast but much unfamiliar noise kept us awake almost the whole night. After
getting up early we had fast breakfast - glad we brought fruits and yoghurt
because the café at the main entrance just sells cake and is very expensive. At
the information centre we got a hiking map and a bus schedule (don’t trust it,
it’s weird, not showing every bus and there is more than one bus cooperation
driving through the gorge – we didn’t figure it out completely…). By bus we
drove to a stop close to the Baiyang Fall Trail and found an Information Centre
to store our tent and everything we didn’t want to carry during our first
“hike”.
Baiyang Trail
I put
“hike” because this trail is a “scenic type”, this means it is very broad, flat
and mainly a nice walk. Due to all the very nice and beautiful butterflies we
wanted to take pictures of we needed despite this nice walking conditions more
than double time to do it. In a normal pace with some picture the trail we take
about one hour – leisurely walk, one way. On our way back we were much faster –
additionally I was very hungry so there was no time for taking pictures anymore
– and just needed 20 minutes to the entry gate.
I already
mentioned the butterflies – there are various and they are all stunningly
beautiful. Every size and colour can be found. But it is a challenge to get
them sharp on a picture! Despite this the trail offers many view points on the
valley were Liwu River is making its way. Also several tunnels are passed – a
headlight or a torch is sometimes useful.
The
unchallenged highlight of the trail is of course the Baiyang Tunnel. You are
going through a tunnel where a waterfall is inside! You are walking in a small
– and nicely cool – river through the tunnel and you have to wear a rain
protection to not be wet completely afterwards. Due to the high calcium content
in the water the stones are not sharp or slippery inside of the tunnel – they
are coated with chalk, which makes walking comfortable and easy.
Due to the
reason that the trail took us longer than expected we didn’t have time for a
second one that day. We decided to set up the tent, played, ate dinner and went
to bed early. The next day we got up at 6am to make our first trail early.
Lüshui
Trail
Due to the
early time we had a very peaceful walk from Lüshui to Heliu and back to Lüshui
were our camping area was. Two of us drove to Tianxiang to get food for the day
– there is no other cheap possibility in the National Park because most of the
visitors just stay for half a day or a day. As I said before, camping is not
very common. I think it’s a pity because it is such a beautiful place for
camping! The second camping ground in Heliu also offers showers, but you
shouldn’t be afraid of cockroaches and bring mosquito protection.
The trail
is also a scenic type so more a nice stroll than hiking but getting up was
definitely worth it. We had a very nice few of the fog hanging in the mountains
and it looked very similar to the fantastic floating mountains in Pandora –
wonderful world of the Hollywood Movie Avatar. Seeing the mountains in reality
was of course much better than watching a movie in the cinema.
Shakadang
Trail – short version
The Trail
is during normal conditions about 5km long, unfortunately we could only hike the
first 1,5km because of a severe typhoon in July this year. The typhoon had led
to various landslides and the trail could not be passed further. But the 1,5km
we hiked have definitely been worth it: we walked very close to the Liwu River
and again saw interesting animals for example a very little frog I would guess
about 1,2cm long and 1cm wide.
Due to the
reason we were so close to the river bed we were able to examine the huge rocks
inside of it closely. I grasped the first time and just for a small moment the
real dimensions of the gorge seeing my hiking partners standing next to the
rocks in the riverbed in front of the cliffs and looking like ants.
Afterwards
we also started a “hiking type” trail just to know what it would look like.
Surprise, surprise, it looked like stairs, stairs and even more stairs. We didn’t
have time to go up to the peak because we wanted to go to the Night market in
Luodong. Luodong is approximately in the middle of the route from Taipei to
Taroko so we thought it would be a nice stop-over.
The night
market offered pizza shaped as ice cream in a waffle, papaya milk, spring rolls
and many other delicious and interesting foods and other stuff.
Below
pictures follow, enjoy the beauty of Taiwan; I hope my pictures grasped a bit
of it.
Stay Positive,
Yihua.
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Our tent on the first morning.. |
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The jewel of Taiwan! |
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Cave
Cricket in the toilet - looks like from another time... |
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Almost black flower.. |
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fuzzy blue flower.. |
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Orchid growing on a tree. |
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Katydid - second try climbing one stair... |
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...got it! Taking a break after this exercise. |
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A bug.. |
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hiding behind a leaf.. |